What makes a predator rifle? I'm often asked. Well, I say it depends. Do you do mostly calling or are you more of a stationary type hunter. If your calling you would do well by yourself to keep the weight down and have some type of repeater. Either sem-automatic or bolt action. Leave the single shots to the guys who sit and wait or hunt over bait piles. Predator rifles are usually in the .17-.22 caliber range but many people have good success with .24 caliber and up. While I admit they're some fine choices in the bigger calibers for out intents and purposes we need to focus on the small calibers listed first. They produce less pelt damage and usually are flatter shooting. We are talking about a specialized rifle here and not an all around tool.
Popular calibers that have performed well in the predator hunting world for some time are the .220 swift, .222 remingtion, .222 rem mag, .223, .204 ruger, .17 rem, .17 rem fireball, .22 hornet, and .218 bee. My opinion is that the .243 is overgunning most predators, but it can be loaded down with the correct bullets and be effective.
There are many fine choices in bolt guns and they are all extremely accurate. Don't get too caught up with brand, pick one that fits you well and that is in your budget. And budget is from a couple hundred dollars on the used market all the way up in the thousands for a custom rig that has spent a little time with a gunsmith. Don't forget about the wildcat cartridges like the .17 predator either. There are many options for custom ammunition and with a minor outlay of cash you could save yourself a bundle to load your own.
Semi-automatics fall in pretty much one category. The infamous AR15. These black rifles have seen a huge surge in popularity in the last several years. They are extremely accurate and though as nails. Being modular only helps matters. Although there are custom uppers in .204 and other great predator cartridges the long time standby has always been the 5.56 or .223. Another plus to the AR platform is that you can have an upper in .223 for predators, .6.5 grendel, .458 socom or .50 beowolf for big game duties or home defense. The options are limitless.
Outfitting your rifle. A good comfortable sling is a prerequisite. Dont' skimp on optics most predator calling is a long range endeavor. Although I believe more in using terrain, shadows and natural features to break your outline, camouflage guns are wildly popular and rightly so. They cut down on the big black or brown blob in front of you and reduce or eliminate glare.
Like I always say, pick up a rifle and get out there and start calling. You'll be glad you did.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Friday, November 12, 2010
Calling and Scouting for predators
A beginning predator hunters asked me the other day "I've done a little calling without much success, what's going on."
The first thing you need to realize is that this is a pretty common question from most beginning callers. Here are a couple of recommendations that will help you become a successful predator hunter.
1. Don't give up. Keep at it and try to get all the practice in that you can. There is a learning curve when hunting predators, especially canines that isn't as steep as other animals like deer. Absolutely deer are intelligent and adaptive survivors but when considering the predatory species they have to outwit these other animals to even survive which is going to require your skill level to be more intricate.
2. Make absolutely certain that you are using wind to your advantage. Worrying about human scent will help but you're fighting a losing battle there. You will not be able to completely eliminate your scent anyway. The scent suppressing suits and sprays haven't been proven in my eyes and they are so well marketed I question their true functionality. You will be in effect trying to lure them out during a time that is unnatural for them to be on the move. Be sure to keep the wind in your face and you will see your success improve, it's that important.
3. Is all your skin covered and are you making an effort to be still. Although these may seem like trivial points they really should be put into practice. Predators have an innate sense to detect movement and anything that appears unnatural to them. The shine of your skin or even a small twitch of movement from a long distance could prevent them from coming in. Make sure you wear gloves and a head net, while keeping statue still.
I will mention here about modern camouflage-the hunting manufacturing industry like all others is there for one reason and that's to turn a profit. Don't get hung up on all of these new patterns and what's better than the other. Camouflage is designed for one reason and one reason alone, to look pretty to hunters wanting to buy it. I have seen little research in the area of it's effectiveness. The newer Gore Optifade does intrigue me I will admit but need to do more research on it to make a educated assessment. I will also mention the UV inhibitors, such as the laundry wash. This seems to make sense to me and is low enough cost that it may be worth a try.
4. Improve your calling skills. This isn't as important if you are using an electronic caller. Since this blog is geared more towards the beginner that might not want to invest in an expensive electronic we are focused more on the mouth blown calls here. The internet is a great place to hear most of the sounds you will be using. Spend some time listening to them, it's hard to replicate a sound if you haven't heard it before. Spend some time trying different things. If cottontails aren't prevalent in your area, try a gray squirrel distress or possibly the predator itself in distress. Try varying your tone and pitch. It may just take a small adjustment to get them coming in on a rope.
5. Try using a partner. Other than the obviously camaraderie benefit, there will be one extra set of eyes. It's also easier for one to shoot and one to call. This way there is no or little movement to aim and shoot. Using a buddy may also open up a couple more properties that you will be able to hunt. Landowners usually seem a little more receptive to removing the predatory species than deer hunting.
6. Scout. Deer hunters know the benefit of scouting their quarry but it hasn't become main stream in the predator hunting world yet. Get out there and beat the brush. Look for sign, tracks, scat and fresh kills are good indicators. Water holes are a good place to start. Thick brush bordered by fields or heavy timber is another. Any edge will do, edges inside large tracts of woods is even better. If you own or have access to private property the use of trail cameras is a great way to find if there are predators there. Again water holes and trails are a good place to set, but for a really effective way to get good photos consider a bait pile. It could be as simple and free as deer guts and hides or roadkill or elaborate as buying a couple chickens from the grocery store to put down. A butcher may also give you a trash can full or scraps and bones for free just so he doesn't have to do it. Just don't be surprised if you end up getting pictures of eagles and crows or the super elusive mountain lion or bear. It's not impossible and they have been moving East for years now.
Good luck and straight shooting. If there's something you'd like to see here on the Eastern Predator Blog, please email me or post a comment the blog is here for your enjoyment.
The first thing you need to realize is that this is a pretty common question from most beginning callers. Here are a couple of recommendations that will help you become a successful predator hunter.
1. Don't give up. Keep at it and try to get all the practice in that you can. There is a learning curve when hunting predators, especially canines that isn't as steep as other animals like deer. Absolutely deer are intelligent and adaptive survivors but when considering the predatory species they have to outwit these other animals to even survive which is going to require your skill level to be more intricate.
2. Make absolutely certain that you are using wind to your advantage. Worrying about human scent will help but you're fighting a losing battle there. You will not be able to completely eliminate your scent anyway. The scent suppressing suits and sprays haven't been proven in my eyes and they are so well marketed I question their true functionality. You will be in effect trying to lure them out during a time that is unnatural for them to be on the move. Be sure to keep the wind in your face and you will see your success improve, it's that important.
3. Is all your skin covered and are you making an effort to be still. Although these may seem like trivial points they really should be put into practice. Predators have an innate sense to detect movement and anything that appears unnatural to them. The shine of your skin or even a small twitch of movement from a long distance could prevent them from coming in. Make sure you wear gloves and a head net, while keeping statue still.
I will mention here about modern camouflage-the hunting manufacturing industry like all others is there for one reason and that's to turn a profit. Don't get hung up on all of these new patterns and what's better than the other. Camouflage is designed for one reason and one reason alone, to look pretty to hunters wanting to buy it. I have seen little research in the area of it's effectiveness. The newer Gore Optifade does intrigue me I will admit but need to do more research on it to make a educated assessment. I will also mention the UV inhibitors, such as the laundry wash. This seems to make sense to me and is low enough cost that it may be worth a try.
4. Improve your calling skills. This isn't as important if you are using an electronic caller. Since this blog is geared more towards the beginner that might not want to invest in an expensive electronic we are focused more on the mouth blown calls here. The internet is a great place to hear most of the sounds you will be using. Spend some time listening to them, it's hard to replicate a sound if you haven't heard it before. Spend some time trying different things. If cottontails aren't prevalent in your area, try a gray squirrel distress or possibly the predator itself in distress. Try varying your tone and pitch. It may just take a small adjustment to get them coming in on a rope.
5. Try using a partner. Other than the obviously camaraderie benefit, there will be one extra set of eyes. It's also easier for one to shoot and one to call. This way there is no or little movement to aim and shoot. Using a buddy may also open up a couple more properties that you will be able to hunt. Landowners usually seem a little more receptive to removing the predatory species than deer hunting.
6. Scout. Deer hunters know the benefit of scouting their quarry but it hasn't become main stream in the predator hunting world yet. Get out there and beat the brush. Look for sign, tracks, scat and fresh kills are good indicators. Water holes are a good place to start. Thick brush bordered by fields or heavy timber is another. Any edge will do, edges inside large tracts of woods is even better. If you own or have access to private property the use of trail cameras is a great way to find if there are predators there. Again water holes and trails are a good place to set, but for a really effective way to get good photos consider a bait pile. It could be as simple and free as deer guts and hides or roadkill or elaborate as buying a couple chickens from the grocery store to put down. A butcher may also give you a trash can full or scraps and bones for free just so he doesn't have to do it. Just don't be surprised if you end up getting pictures of eagles and crows or the super elusive mountain lion or bear. It's not impossible and they have been moving East for years now.
Good luck and straight shooting. If there's something you'd like to see here on the Eastern Predator Blog, please email me or post a comment the blog is here for your enjoyment.
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